A mere bunny hop, skip and a jump from London — thanks to the 1.26-hour train service from the village station to Paddington — this imposing, three-storey eyrie at the centre of Kingham in the tranquil Evenlode Valley is one of the most accessible of a plethora of smart hotels from which to reconnoitre this enduringly-popular area.
Built on the site of a medieval rabbit warren, the wisteria-clad The Wild Rabbit, once a farmhouse, was relaunched to great acclaim in 2013 by Lady Carole Bamford, who also masterminds the Daylesford Organic farmshop and wellness empire, The Fox at Lower Oddington, The Bell at Charlbury and The Three Horseshoes at Asthall.
Decorated in Lady Bamford’s signature style — a muted palette of taupe linens, caramel stone, blonde wood and eclectic (in this case, rabbit-themed) artwork — the hotel is a paean to its owner’s ethos of comfortable, yet incredibly spoiling accommodation, first-class local, seasonal food and relaxed (albeit exacting) service.
The rooms
Named after woodland creatures, the 13 bedrooms at the 17th century hotel itself (12 in the pub and one in a self-contained annexe) all scream the rustic chic that Lady Bamford is so well known for, including some with birch trunk four posters. Most have baths (with a shower above) panelled with little dry stone walls — in a nod to the distinctive field boundaries that snake across the surrounding sheep-studded landscape — and plenty of deliciously aromatic Bamford products to indulge in.
For me, however, the real highlight is the range of 32 self-catering cottages (above) that it’s possible to stay in throughout the village, which dates back to 200BC. I was lucky to be allocated the diminutive ‘Bantam’ (in a sweet little row, that’s also home to ‘Nestling’ and ‘Hatchling’) that has its own private garden and is only a one-minute walk from the hotel. Equipped with a white-rattan-doored kitchen, a cute single-oven Aga and a fridge stocked with Daylesford Organic eggs, butter and milk, my retreat also had a comfortable lounge area, an open fire and beds for my Labradors, Nimrod and Rocky. I was also struck by the hazel spindles of the staircase — which, along with the twig coat hooks behind the bathroom door, were hewn from timber felled on the Daylesford estate — leading to a neat bedroom and en suite, enhanced by a hanging rail cleverly concealed by a soft cream linen curtain.
‘In refurbishing these buildings, we’ve sought to honour and respect our surroundings by working with natural materials that are sourced locally,’ enthuses Lady Bamford. ‘I hope they convey a sense of the history of the area and offer you a connection to nature and the landscapes around you.’
Eating and drinking
Having been coaxed to begin with a spoiling ‘rhubarb and custard’ negroni, I opted for the tasting menu and wine pairing, featuring locally-foraged ingredients, along with meat and vegetables from the Bamfords’ estates and organic gardens. The wild garlic dumpling, morel, broad bean with Rachel cheese, followed by halibut, smoked crème fraîche, dill and kohlrabi were exceptional. Yet, the chicken, white asparagus, leek and hen of the woods, doused in an Amontillado sauce was so delectable that I wanted to lick the plate. As far as show-stopping puttings are concerned, however, the Daylesford blue, apple, thyme, honey, rhubarb — which involved a freeze dried ice blue cheese cream being spooned over slithers of apple fashioned into a shape of rose — was pretty impressive, as was the strawberry, sweet woodruff, hay and meadowsweet, accompanied by a glass of Nyetimber ‘Cuvee Chérie’ demi-sec.
How they’ll keep you busy
With more than 2,000 acres of organic farmland to explore, a stroll to nearby Daylesford, from where you can follow a range of signposted walks, is a must. Alternatively, the hotel reception staff can book you on a guided Nature trail.
What else to do while you’re there
When I visited in early summer, I took my dogs on lots of ambles through the village, where I marvelled at the range of architecture, the pretty cottage gardens and the insects buzzing on the fragrant flowers bedecking the many lime trees, as swifts screamed over the Cotswold stone rooftops. It’s also worth wandering up Church Street to The Kingham Plough, which serves a host of pub classics, such as a pint of prawns and a good old-fashioned ploughman’s board, with ham, Keen’s Cheddar and pickles.
Who is it for?
Perfect for anyone — particularly young, London-based couples in search of a bucolic mini-break — wanting to enjoy the myriad delights of the Cotswolds (Burford and Stow-on-the-Wold are a stone’s throw away) with the independence of residing in your own private cottage, with an excellent restaurant within walking distance.
What gives it the ‘wow’ factor?
All the small touches, such as the rabbit motifs on almost everything (including the tissue paper toppers on the round pats of Daylesford butter). As ever, though, in first-class establishments, it’s the skill of the staff that sets The Wild Rabbit apart. The restaurant and front of house staff were especially sensitive to the fact I was dining alone amid a profusion of couples and kindly sat me at a table in the corner, so that I could observe the goings on in the lively bar, without feeling too incongruous.
The one thing we’d change
Although the bright dining room at the back of the building affords an insight into the kitchen and a sneak peek down the glass-capped well, I didn’t feel the open plan space was as characterful and welcoming as the more traditional front bar area.
A night at The Kingham Cottages at The Wild Rabbit starts from £350.
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