Fingal, Edinburgh: A floating hotel with royal connection, run by the trust who look after HMY Britannia
The Royal Yacht Britannia was long ago decommissioned but has now become a top attraction in Edinburgh — and now the boat has a sister craft, Fingal, for those who want to stay nearby. Adam Hay-Nicholls paid a visit.

Set on the Firth of Forth, Edinburgh’s Leith area has changed exponentially in the two-and-a-bit decades since Irvine Welsh’s self-medicated rogues littered these cobbled streets. A greater wave of gentrification would be hard to find. The port’s upturn was heralded with the arrival of HMY Britannia in 1997, which has taken up residence as a royal museum.
Aboard Britannia, the clocks are stopped at 3:01pm. It was at this hour, on the afternoon of December 11, 1997, that The Queen stepped ashore for the final time and shed a tear.
Now, 350,000 visitors pass through every year; tickets from £16.50, while the State Dining Room can be hired for private events.
Now, the trust that maintains Britannia has invested in another vessel, Fingal, a former lighthouse servicing ship, which has undergone a £5 million refit to become a five-star, floating hotel.
Each of Fingal’s 23 cabins is named after a Stevenson lighthouse, which is illustrated by black-and-white photography.
Wardrobes are trimmed in fine Scottish leather; Tunnock’s Teacakes and Noble Isle whisky-scented soaps are provided. The bed throws and cushions are made by textile designer Araminta Campbell – her studio is mere yards away.
The Princess Royal, who is patron of the Northern Lighthouse Board, served on Fingal and what had been her cabin is now an en-suite bathroom. The Scotch and Champagne selections in the Lighthouse Bar are superb and the £40 afternoon tea is a particular treat.
Sign up for the Country Life Newsletter
Exquisite houses, the beauty of Nature, and how to get the most from your life, straight to your inbox.
For other food and drink options in the area, The Ship on The Shore is a nearby pub that has a fishy happy hour and serves oysters as the preferred pub snack. Meanwhile, Leith boasts two Michelin-starred restaurants: The Kitchin (www.thekitchin.com) and Martin Wishart (www.restaurantmartinwishart.co.uk) — both serving up seasonal Scottish produce with an imaginative French twist.
Find out more about Britannia at www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk; cabins aboard Fingal start from £300 – see www.fingal.co.uk
Bringing the quintessential English rural idle to life via interiors, food and drink, property and more Country Life’s travel content offers a window into the stunning scenery, imposing stately homes and quaint villages which make the UK’s countryside some of the most visited in the world.
-
The Airlander wants to save our skies
A new hybrid aircraft promises eco-friendly aviation. Designed and built in the UK, can it be the future of air travel?
By Charles Harris Published
-
Why don't we know how long the UK coastline is?
Welcome to the Coastline Paradox, where trying to find an accurate answer is more of a hindrance than a help.
By Martin Fone Published