The Grove at Narberth, is that rare thing — a hotel that makes you feel at home. Tiffany Daneff finds out how.
The grove was derelict when it was spotted by Neil and Zoe Kedward who happened to have taken a wrong turn driving home.
They fell in love with the derelict Arts and Crafts manor which had been empty for eight years: the roof leaked and the gardens were overgrown. They bought it in 2007 and, at first, ran it as a B&B since when it has gradually expanded.
The designer Martin Harbult, who has been working here since 2016 renovating the rooms, has done a magnificent job taking his cue from the remaining Arts & Crafts detailing.
The sitting rooms are cosy yet smart — look for the Welsh spoons hanging on the wood panelling. There’s another seating area upstairs too. I loved the mix of old and new; Welsh dressers and carved oak chests with modern nest tables from Zara Home and tapestry hangings from Ikea all underpinned by first class fittings.
It’s this mix that makes it feel natural, a bit like you’d do at home.
The rooms
There are 25 suites and rooms across the main house and cottages in the grounds, each of them different.
We stayed in the Bramble Suite on the ground floor of the 15th century cottage that adjoins the main house. White-washed walls decorated with antique pitchforks and dark wooden floors were combined with the most comfortable furniture: traditionally upholstered wing chairs by the wood burner set in the old fireplace; an excellent bed with a bedhead made from Welsh double cloth weave fabric which you can see being made on a visit to the water-powered in the Melin Tregwynt woollen mills nearby.
The bath was heaven, beautifully designed with a wide surround and the big central tap produced lashings of hot water.
Just what’s needed after a rainy afternoon.
To top it all the living room was in a contemporary glass box that opened onto a private area of garden. All the fittings were just so. I liked it so much I would have brought the whole room home.
Eating and drinking
Both restaurants are award winning. The Fernery has a five or seven course taster menu that celebrates its home grown vegetables and locally sourced ingredients. Chef Douglas Bailish likes to surprise diners — the first course, named Wye Valley, was described as asparagus, cheddar and black lime, but delivered a bright green veloute of asparagus with a hidden centre of warm cheese and a delicious brioche on the side.
Cleverly judged, so as not to be too rich, the menu is accompanied by an excellent selection of wines chosen by head sommelier Cathryn Bell who really knows what she is talking about (we thoroughly enjoyed her recommendation of Causse Marines ‘Les Greilles’ 2020) and has curated an impressively informed and eclectic list.
(There’s also a new paired menu of specially created non-alcoholic drinks.)
Dinner in the Artisan Brasserie is a three course affair of which the falafel with hummus and pomegranate starter stood out, but almost my most favourite dish of the weekend was the breakfast poached eggs (the best eggs from Jenkins, Haverfordwest) on a tomato and pepper reduction with goats cheese on home baked sourdough toast.
How they’ll keep you busy
There are walks around the meadowy grounds, past lily filled ponds and woods as well as through the walled garden which is well worth a visit.
It’s beautifully planted with flowers for cutting as well as produce for the kitchen. There’s a gravel court for playing boules too.
There’s no gym, swimming pool or spa, but in room spa treatments can be organised.
What else to do while you’re there
A 40 minute drive takes you to the coast with beaches and the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path to explore. For suggested walks ask at the hotel desk. We picked a one and quarter hour circular walk from Porthgain (above), a small harbour with the impressive overgrown ruins of old brick hoppers from which granite was loaded through chutes to ships in the harbour. In June the short grass was bright with wildflowers — thrift, campion and vetch to mention a few — and the path took us past a stone circle overlooking the sea.
Back at Porthgain and hungry we had cod and chips at The Shed — some of, if not the best I’ve had.
Further along the coast at Newport (Pembrokeshire, not Gwent), another popular spot, we stumbled upon a neolithic burial chamber incongruously tucked in beside a housing estate.
Less than half an hour inland we visited Pentre Ifan, erected 3500 BC and which people say is the best burial chamber in Britain — they’re not overselling it either.
From here you can see the Preseli Hills (another great place to explore) where the stones at Stonehenge are thought to come from.
We also visited the church of St Brynach in Nevern (founded in the sixth century) which has a magnificent early 11th century Celtic cross outside, early Christian inscribed stones inside and behind it, up a short path past the banks and ditches of the 12th century Nevern Castle is a pilgrim’s cross.
It is thought to be medieval and has been carved in the rock beside the old pilgrims’ route to St David’s. It is a magical spot.
Who is it for?
People looking for a weekend away; outdoor lovers, walkers, sailors and surfers who prefer a hot bath, delicious food and wine and some pampering after a long day.
It’s a brilliant place from which to explore west Pembrokeshire.
What gives it the ‘wow’ factor
The peaceful location, the buildings and the way they have been so thoughtfully restored and redecorated together with the sense of privacy and the friendliness of the staff.
There are so many attentions to detail: the cup containing a pair of little scissors, needles and cotton reels in every room (so much nicer than the usual plastic sewing kit), small batch Welsh made shower gel and shampoo.
When you arrive someone comes over to help with the luggage and takes you to your room without all the faff of a long drawn out check in.
When you leave you’re handed a bag of water and mini Welsh cakes from the kitchen for the journey home.
The one thing we’d change
To be honest, I really can’t think of anything.
Rooms at The Grove at Narberth start at £390 a night. Call 01834 860915 or visit www.grovenarberth.co.uk for more information and to book
