The Country Life Guide to Marrakech: Where to shop, stay and eat

You’d be forgiven for feeling a little trepidation on first entering the main Jemaa el-Fnaa square (main image) in the middle of Marrakech’s vibrant Medina, which occupies Marrakesh’s original fortified citadel, especially after sunset. 

The square has a mysterious atmosphere — all fragrant smoke, snake charmers, jittery monkeys and the pungent smell of rich spices filling the air. I’ve visited the city countless times since my university years and although so much has changed, so much hasn’t — but it never fails to surprise. 

The best bit? It’s a short, three hour flight from London and for full immersion into a totally different time and place, to a city steeped in history where days are punctuated by the call-to-prayer reverberating off centuries-old walls. 

The city can be devoured in a few days with dedication — or over a week, should you wish to take things more slowly. 

What to do

Shop for rugs

If you’re staying inside the confines of the Media then you must explore the souk on foot.

Stock up on the finest quality spices or fall for beautiful crockery to decorate walls and dressers at home (and to eat from, of course). 

Rugs have been woven by the people of Morocco since the Paleolithic Era and it’s nearly always better value to buy them here and ship them home, than to purchase them at home. 

I’ve even been known to bring a spare suitcase with me for rug transportation purposes. 

Try the carpet kings Soufiane Zarib and Mustafa Blaoui (warning: there’s no sign on the door).

Set aside a good few hours for proper perusing and then pop next door to Valerie Barkowski for beautiful, tasselled bath towels. 

For rugs with a modern edge try LRNCE. 

Shop for clothes

For the best, original textiles, head to the city’s industrial district where some of the more trendy designers and makers have factories and boutiques. 

I found some beautiful printed dresses in Topolina. 

Next, hop along to Marakeshi Life for exquisitely woven, striped kaftans, trousers and shirts. If you ask nicely, they’ll show you the craftspeople at work infront of the looms. 

You’ll need to get a taxi to this area — it’s about 20 minutes from the Medina — and you can ask your driver to wait for you, or even to drive you from shop to shop for a small fee.

Where to stay

In the Medina

I would recommend four nights total: two outside and two inside the Medina, at a riad or boutique hotel. 

My favourite is La Sultana (rooms from £479), where you’ll be greeted by cheerful staff wearing red uniforms and Fez hats and proffering trays of stuffed dates and fresh mint tea (drink this at every opportunity, and pretend not to notice when they add sugar. It’s too delicious). 

Behind the unassuming entrance you’ll discover opulent interiors, heavenly indoor courtyards and balconies festooned with bougainvillaea.

There are plenty of places to hide away with a book in hand — and although the hotel was full when I visited, it couldn’t have felt more peaceful. Often the only visible company is a flutter of tweeting birds. 

At La Sultana the food is traditional with a twist — fragrant tagines share space on the plate with Italian and French influences. 

Bedrooms are named after animals and have an old school charm — the Elephant Suite is the finest of them all though. 

There is a proper Moroccan spa (I say ‘proper’ because the hammam is thorough and the massages are gloriously firm). Book in for complimentary yoga on the rooftop (against a dramatic backdrop of the Atlas Mountains) followed by a breakfast comprising traditional berber pancakes and moorish cakes.

Out of town

Grandeur knows no bounds at the Mandarin Oriental (rooms from £1,030).

Of the 61 ‘rooms’, 54 are private villas with their own swimming pools framed by pristine white, upholstered loungers. 

All of the bathrooms are as big as my London flat, boasting tubs for wallowing in and showers that double as steam rooms (excellent, incidentally, for smoothing out creased dresses).

You’d never leave if it wasn’t for the incredible communal pool that meals are regularly served alongside.

Come Easter, the hotel lays out an extensive buffet and a roaming mariachi band. The people watching is exemplary. 

Although the Mandarin Oriental group has hotels all over the globe, this Marrakech offering has a real sense of place, down to the astonishing gardens which harbour a kitchen plot that stocks the hotel’s fridges, a petting farm and the Kid’s Kasbah (club). 

The spa is one of the largest in the city and treatments are exquisite — to be enjoyed in your own suite.

Where to eat

Plus 61 is all about minimalist design and maximalist flavour. Try the crispy chicken and juicy cabbage slaw (it’s big enough to share). The cocktails are herby, and, dare I say, healthy? Or go for an organic wine…or two.

Dine on the rooftop at El Fenn in order to admire the lovely decor — striped cushions and walls jam-packed with colourful plates. Start with cocktails and nibbles in the bar area before settling down at a table to fish tagine. 

NOMAD Marrakech and Imida both serve up incredible and inventive dishes. And they both have wonderful rooftops. Neither serves alcohol, but the mocktails and juices more than make up for it.