The attention to detail at The Artist Residence, Penzance, is second-to-none, says Tiffany Daneff — on a trip to to very tip of Cornwall.
The Artist Residence, Penzance, was the second in the clutch of five Artist Residence hotels that are known for their offbeat charm and relaxed, easy atmosphere.
The first was set up in Brighton by Justin Salisbury who gave up university to take over his mother’s guesthouse. It was rundown, he had no money and he hit on the idea of getting artists in to do it up. There were hiccups — and some necessary advice from Alex Polizzi — but the result was so successful that he repeated the formula, again and again.
The Penzance hotel, which opened in 2010, was overseen by Justin’s girlfriend, now wife, Charlie. With nothing but the most basic help (a plumber, electrician, carpenter and painter and decorator) she transformed the derelict building situated half way down a pretty street of Georgian townhouses.
It now offers an excellent mid-budget base from which to explore south-west Cornwall.
The staff are just that right balance between friendly and efficient and the location — just a couple of minutes walk away from the seafront, not to mention plenty of characterful local pubs — together with the excellent food and cocktails are worth coming for even if you’re not staying.
The rooms
The rooms are the thing. In keeping with the Artist Residence ethos, every room is different which works well in funny old buildings like this where things are arranged higgledy-piggledy and no two rooms have the same dimensions.
We had the ‘Mini Lookout’ under the eaves, which included a double bedroom, single bedroom and open plan living room with a free-standing copper bathtub, shower and loo at the far end.
Out of the window we could look down on the figure of a pirate, pistol in hand, lying astride the roof of the Admiral Benbow pub below.
The mood was upcycled, mid-century modern/Palm beach retro — a bit quirky with hens on the cushions, a nice selection of reading material if you forgot yours and stripped back cupboards with good quality tea bags and biscuity/nutty nibbles.
No free treats though. Prices vary with the season but are from £150 for The Snug, while the Mini Lookout is from £275 a night.
Eating and drinking
Being a stone’s throw from the sea brings some fine seafood to the menu from sweet lobster to succulent scallops and Fowey mussels as well as the fish of the day.
There are plenty of other options on a comfortably short menu introduced by the new chef Gareth Crosby on which everything is clearly thought out, thought through and delivered by someone who knows their flavours, sources locally and cares about dishing up inventive and different combinations.
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The steak and chips were spot on (always a mark of a good kitchen): the meat came from Harvey Brothers, the excellent butchers at the top of Chapel Street. The cocktail menu was just as carefully curated and the barman recommended the ‘Olive-oil Martini’ which proved very fine indeed.
Breakfast the next morning was up there too, offering one of the best full English I’ve come across — with excellent thin-cut nicely cured smoked bacon and a proper banger (both from Harvey Brothers) along with all the usual works.
How they’ll keep you busy
As this is a Georgian building there are no spas and other mod-cons and the garden is a courtyard, but then you have Chapel Street on your doorstep with a range of Georgian houses each with its own individual character, smuggler’s pubs and The Nelson Inn which used to be the heart of Georgian society in Penzance.
It then housed a theatre (the second oldest in the country), a cockpit and the Assembly Rooms from where in 1805 news first arrived of the death of Nelson and the victory at Trafalgar.
Opposite is the glorious Grade I listed Egyptian House built for John Lanvin, a local mineralogist, in around 1835 as a museum and geological store. It now belongs to the Landmark Trust who have restored its original paint colours and you can stay on the up floors. This you must not miss.
What else to do while you’re there
Book a trip to the Scilly Isles which are 28 miles away. Take a 20 minute helicopter flight or one of the regular sailings on the Scillonian at 2 hours and 40 minutes.
But there is plenty to do right on your doorstep from summer swimming in the magnificent 1930s triangular seawater lido (above), to heading to St Michael’s Mount or St Ives.
Who is it for?
Probably not ideal for older people who aren’t happy climbing steep staircases.
What gives it the ‘wow’ factor
The attention to detail. Everywhere there’s something worth looking at from the wooden shelves of yarn spools in the lobby to the net lampshades above the dining tables.
There’s a personality and charm that is rarely encountered in the hotel world.
The one thing we’d change
The iron bedstead squeaked and the pillows were much too soft.
Visit www.artistresidence.co.uk for more information and to book
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