Prussia Cove: Shrouded in mystery and romance, this former smugglers' paradise is an isolated idyll
Come for the history, stay for the swimming and walking.


Cornishman John Carter, born in 1738, was quite the character. He was fond of playing soldier games as a youngster, getting so into the spirit of these adventures that he was known as the King of Prussia, perhaps partly due to his resemblance to Frederick the Great. Fast forward a few years and that boy was on his way to becoming one of the most famed smugglers the county has ever seen.
With all the caves and crannies, it's easy to see why Prussia Cove was so popular with smugglers.
HMS Warspite, known as the 'Grand Old Lady' of the Royal Navy, ran aground at Prussia Cove in 1947, and was eventually broken up for scrap nearby.
It was a time when salt, gin and tobacco were all in high demand and heavily taxed. These rich pickings from across the Channel were frequently hidden among the caves and rocks of Prussia Cove — actually a quartet of different neighbouring coves taking its title from Carter’s nickname — which is today a place of secluded beauty among the imposing headlands of the south coast. Its evocative blend of mystery and history was added to in May 1947, when the former First World War battleship HMS Warspite ran aground here in a storm.
How to visit Prussia Cove
By car, the only car park is a five-minute walk up the road, just past Trenalls. There are limited spaces, so arrive early in the day during peak times to secure a space. You can walk from the nearest village Rosudgeon in about 20 minutes, or along the South West Coast Path from Perranuthnoe (60 minutes) or from the sandy beaches of Praa Sands (50 minutes).
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Ben Lerwill is a multi-award-winning travel writer based in Oxford. He has written for publications and websites including national newspapers, Rough Guides, National Geographic Traveller, and many more. His children's books include Wildlives (Nosy Crow, 2019) and Climate Rebels and Wild Cities (both Puffin, 2020).
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