Checking into the Townhouse at The Haymarket Hotel in the beating heart of London is like having your own exclusive pied-à-terre moments from the city’s best-known landmarks and West End shows, says Paula Lester.
‘We think that travel should be an adventure, but also as comfortable as being at home, with all the amenities of a five-star hotel,’ declares the award-winning interior designer and hotelier Kit Kemp, who — along with her husband, Tim — owns 11 Firmdale hotels split between London and New York. Among their number is the one on this page: The Haymarket, which is located smack bang next door to the Theatre Royal in SW1.
What really sets the Townhouse — a four-storey Regency villa designed by John Nash in the early 1800s — apart from other separate entities within prestigious hotels, however, is that this sleek and sophisticated eyrie has its own private front door off Suffolk Place.
In addition, as with so many neo-Classical, Nash-designed landmarks — the architect also masterminded nearby Trafalgar Square and remodelled Buckingham Palace — the space is all sweeping staircases and high-ceilinged, elegantly proportioned rooms with floor-to-ceiling sash windows.
And that’s before we even get onto the alluringly eclectic interior design — think bold prints and witty use of colour, art and sculpture, plus subtle scents courtesy of Mrs Kemp’s enticing RikRak range of home fragrances and candles (‘perfume is the invisible power of persuasion,’ she enthuses).
With five ensuite bedrooms to choose from, plus a soothing, teal-coloured kitchen and dining room, where you’ll find all sorts of sweet treats and a Champagne- and wine-stocked fridge, this really is the smartest and most ideally situated of homes-from-home.
Even though, of course, anything you fancy from the room-service menu is only a phone call and a tap on the door away.
The rooms
On striding through the Townhouse’s black shiny door — such a treat to be able to bypass reception and still have someone else carry your bags — I admired the jaunty Manuel Canovas wallpaper, which depicts a host of city rooftops, lining the wide staircase.
At the top is a first-floor, L-shaped living room, with blue-fabric-clad walls, that’s filled with large, squashy sofas and thoughtful details such as a record player with vinyl records and an iPad or MacBook laptop at your disposal.
Yet nothing prepared me for the riot of carefully considered colour and fabric in Rose, the adjoining master bedroom, that’s so indicative of Mrs Kemp’s taste for vivid statement headboards (in this case, crimson) and floral wallpapers (blue and red), with a mish-mash of printed upholstery, curtains and art that combine to lend these lofty, expansive and light-filled rooms a touch of glamour, fun and warmth.
All of the hotel’s 50 additional rooms and suites (some of which also have their own kitchens) enjoy the same sense of enormous space. What’s more, most — including the Townhouse — have a freestanding bathtub (with an in-bathroom television at just the right height in the marble wall), as well as walk-in showers and double sinks.
Eating and drinking
Named after one of Mr and Mrs Kemp’s beloved spaniels, Brumus, the Haymarket’s all-day British brasserie (above) offers French bistro classics with an English twist.
Under the gaze of Reclining Woman by Dutch artist Carla Kranendonk — who presides over the blush-pink fabric and art-laden walls — you can sink into the plushly upholstered navy-blue chairs, each of which is adorned by a different cerise dog motif and dine on hearty mains such as steak-and-ale pie or Dover sole, grilled or meunière.
I started with light-as-a-feather Wiltshire ham and Westcombe Cheddar croquettes, followed by a big steaming bowl of mussels with cider-and-bacon sauce, plus crunchy French fries, washed down with a glass of Champagne.
If I hadn’t skipped breakfast in favour of a latte delivered to my room, I may have gone for the scrambled eggs with Alfred Enderby Grimsby-smoked salmon or the array of porridges (choose from organic rolled, jumbo or pinhead oats) cooked with milk, water or cream, topped with mixed berries, banana, mango, pineapple, honey, maple syrup, brown sugar or seeds.
How they’ll keep you busy
Given its proximity to the Theatre Royal, it would be a shame to miss Dominic West’s performance in Arthur Miller’s A View from the Bridge. However, if musicals are your thing, then there’s The Phantom of the Opera, which has been moving audiences on the opposite side of the street at His Majesty’s Theatre since 1986.
For anyone keen on sight-seeing, shopping and museum- or gallery-visiting, there’s an embarrassment of riches, with Mayfair and Jermyn Street stores within walking distance, the Mall and St James’s Park just across Trafalgar Square — which is also home to the National Gallery — not to mention the plethora of smart bars and restaurants in Soho and Chinatown.
‘You have the best of London on your doorstep,’ notes Mrs Kemp.
What else to do while you’re there
In the depths of this handsome building lies a 55ft subterranean swimming pool, illuminated by a multi-coloured Martin Richman light installation, with a pewter bar flanked by upholstered sofas and chairs.
If you’re not staying, the hotel also offers a ‘Swim & Dine package’ so external guests can book in for a swim (group or solo) followed by brunch or lunch in Brumus. But if that sounds too much like hard work, why not take afternoon tea in one of the tastefully-wallpapered downstairs lounges, such as the airy conservatory or the cosy library, which has its own honesty bar.
Who is it for?
Anyone looking for a memorable place to take a loved one for a special anniversary or a big family get-together for a milestone birthday, especially as the Townhouse’s five double bedrooms can accommodate 10 guests with ease.
Its situation is obviously ideal for theatre-goers, but also for those visiting London on business.
What gives it the ‘wow’ factor?
The fact that you can live like a Londoner — and one at an A-list address — for a few days in an historically important building that’s been skillfully curated to exude a modern gracefulness through Mrs Kemp’s keen eye for flamboyantly quirky detail and contemporary art, such as Sir Tony Cragg’s shapeshifting stainless-steel sculpture in the majestic entrance lobby.
However, the real elevating factor is the service, which might appear relaxed, but is actually incredibly precise.
Having got to Trafalgar Square before realising I’d left my boots in my room, I’m forever indebted to the kindly Dejan who quickly retrieved them, allowing me to get to work on time.
The one thing we’d change
Given the entertaining use of colour and pattern throughout the hotel, the dark-grey marble bathroom — as big and well equipped as it is — seems dull in comparison.
It would be lovely to see some bright accessories and art in this space, too.
The cost of a night’s stay at the Townhouse at the Haymarket Hotel starts from £4,560 on an exclusive basis for up to 10 people in all five bedrooms. The price includes breakfast and full use of the hotel amenities, and fluctuates depending on the time of year and the number of guests. Call 020–7470 4000 or visit www.firmdalehotels.com for more information and to book.
