Luxury needn't be the enemy of good taste. Chalet Machapuchare in Val D'Isère shows us how it's done.
It’s illegal to drink alcohol in a car in Switzerland, even if you are not driving. This was a fact I didn’t think I would ever need to know, until my brief attempt at a nap was pierced by a popping cork when we crossed the French border.
The transfer is the worst part of a ski holiday. Traffic and children; thousands of holiday-makers funneled into the gaping maw of the French alpine valleys. But in a leather seat, with a glass of fizz and good company, suddenly things aren’t so bad. There’s no need to rush.
So you arrive at Chalet Machapuchare in Val D’Isère after a three-hour drive not in a state of total exhaustion and rage, but on a cloud, feeling divine. The divine is a theme: Machapuchare is named after Machhapuchhare, a mountain in Nepal that’s mooted as a residence of the god Shiva. As such, it has never been officially climbed, because the Nepalese government will not issue a permit to do so. Thankfully, you can get a permit to visit Chalet Machapuchare, and they start at about £46,000 for a week.
One of the master suites, with sublime views of the resort.
It’s fitting of its namesake. The residence has twice been named France’s Best Ski Chalet by The World Ski Awards. Flicking through the photographs on the website of chalet managers Purple Ski, I was already impressed by the design, the location, the indoor pool and the interiors. But a private transfer with Champagne and snacks? Included with the price? A holiday doesn’t begin when you get to your destination. It should begin when you step off the plane.
Dug into the hillside of Le Crêt, the chalet is a short walk and an even shorter drive from the centre of Val D’Isère. It’s a quiet and elevated spot, one which owner Yoann Marchand and his family have been looking after for generations. In the cliffs above, ibex and chamois roam. A bearded vulture circles overhead. Yoann and his wife Charlotte have an eye for geography and location that is matched only by their eye for interior design.
Skiing has got more expensive, and where the money flows, luxury will follow. Resorts such as Val D’Isère, Courchevel and Lech have seen an influx of investment in recent years. It is not always spent well — I have seen skis with fur on them and outfits that boggle the mind. Chalets have sprung up around the hills, glass boxes of crystal and marble that take the rich heritage of these mountains and pay them no respect. Before the skiing and the money, these towns and villages were for farmers, built of wood and granite. It can be hard to imagine now.
The steam room, pool and gym.
Which is what makes Machapuchare so impressive. It is that very special and difficult thing: luxury and authenticity. Everything you could want is here. An army of helpful staff. A generational talent of a chef in Hugo Attou. The indoor pool. The heated boot room, the views, the wines, a cinema room, a gym, a steam room, seven vast bedrooms and even step-free access. Nothing has been missed.
But none of it is offensive. At its heart, Machapuchare is just a very comfortable place to rest after a day of skiing. The fire roars, the beers are cold and the food is wonderful. There’s no crystal, marble or plastic, and heritage is the very DNA of the building. Yoann and Charlotte spent years sourcing the materials, turning anything they can find, from old cider-presses and horse-carts to cheese casings and wheels, into tables and chairs. The history of this valley, one which is so often overlooked by those who visit, is so present.
From the valley, of the valley. Reclaimed materials make up so much of Chalet Machapuchare.
That’s not to say that there’s not a little bit of flair in this hillside retreat. The main sitting area is a vast double-height open space with views for miles, centred around a glorious fire. The garage and boot room have been dug into the mountain and resemble a Bond-villain’s lair. There’s even an outdoor hot-tub.
Luxury can be a very binary concept, however. What good is an outdoor hot-tub if you have to keep getting out to go and get another drink? What makes it all work is the staff, and you’ll find few as helpful as those at Machapuchare. They are friendly, knowledgeable and kind and no request is too absurd. Do you have a specialised orthopaedic mattress that you need flown out from the US for your holiday? That can be, and has been, arranged. Do you want to bring your own art? You wouldn’t be the first. What impressed me most, however, is how quickly they understand you as a guest. There’s always a cup of tea or a beer waiting for you, before you have even asked.
After three days, I got my napkin out and was doing the maths. The chalet sleeps 14 people, so if you divide £46,000 by 14, it adds up to about £3,300 each. A not insignificant amount of money. But throw in the breakfast and dinner, the wine, the beer and spirits, the tea and cake, the location and the luxury and it starts to make a bit of sense. And after that first sip of Champagne on the French border, that first evening gazing out on the snow-capped Alps, that first four-course meal, I can promise that you really won’t care.
Everything else you need to know before you book
Where to get your skis: Oxygène will come to the chalet when you arrive and fit your skis and boots for you, so you are ready to shred first thing the next morning. They are also fantastic ski instructors and guides.
Where to eat on the slopes: Le Refuge de Solaise occupies a prime spot at the top of the Solaise bubble and offers outstanding dining that’s only beaten by the view. I got stuck there during a blizzard. There are plenty of worse places to be stuck during a blizzard. Maison Louly can be found at the top of Bellevarde, and is a triumph of traditional French cooking. Upstairs is a proper dining room, downstairs a self-serve canteen.
Sublime views at Le Refuge de Solaise. Credit: Andy Parant
Where to eat when Hugo has his night off: La Baraque is a vibrant brasserie and live-music venue towards the centre of town. Even in early December, it was buzzing and clearly the place to be.
What to do if you don’t want to ski: Explore the valley on an electric-powered fat bike with Wattsup and learn a bit more of the history of Val D’Isère. Or, if you don’t fancy leaving the house, book an in-chalet massage with Massage Me.
Where to get a drink in town after a hard day’s shredding: The Blue Note bar is a quiet English speakeasy in town. If you go at happy hour, they might even give you some bread and saucisson with your beer as a little treat. Le Garage is always a good time, with a fantastic selection of local beers and wines in a former, you guessed it, garage.
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