Winchester College: The school that's survived six centuries of turmoil, including the sacking of the city around it

Winchester College is both a school for the lucky few and an architectural marvel, says Clive Aslet.

The war cloister at Winchester College.
The war cloister at Winchester College.

The Bishop of Winchester and Chancellor of England, William of Wykeham, founded a school at Winchester in 1382 to maintain an adequate supply of pupils who knew Latin (as well as to say prayers for his soul) for New College, Oxford, which he had established three years earlier. His foundation charter expounded a curriculum based on grammar, by which he meant the international lingua franca of Latin.

College Street is in the centre of Winchester.

As former headmaster James Sabben-Clare wrote in his book Winchester College in 1981: ‘It is a quite remarkable thing that nearly 600 years later most of the original buildings should still be standing, and within and around them the process of education should still be carried on by the same people as are named in the original statutes — albeit in different ways and in company with many others: a Warden and 10 Fellows, two masters, 70 scholars, three chaplains, three lay-clerks, and 16 quiristers or choirboys.’


READ MORE


By diplomacy and guile, successive wardens dodged the blows aimed at them by the Dissolution of the Monasteries and the turbulence of the Civil War (during which the rest of Winchester was sacked).

With its ancient buildings, spreading lawns, arcadian surroundings, traditions, its impenetrable tribal language, studious calm and erudite ivory tower-ishness, Winchester is so profoundly English and sequestered that it can inspire nostalgia even in visitors who never went there.

Winchester College. The Cloisters, as they were in the 1860s, photographed by A.W. Bennett in this albumen silver print. (Photo by: Sepia Times/Universal Images Group via Getty Images)
(Image credit: Sepia Times/Universal Images Gro)

How to visit Winchester College

The school — with its 11 acres of gardens, playing fields and 80 listed buildings — is on the southern edge of the city centre of Winchester. Unusually for a working school, guided tours (at £10) are available during the week for interested visitors; they focus on the medieval heart of the school including Chamber Court, Chapel, College Hall, Cloisters and the 17th Century School building. There is also a museum, and on the 'heritage open days' in September you can wander through the whole place; entry is free. See winchestercollege.org/visit-us for more details.

An aerial view of the prehistoric White horse carved into the hillside at Uffington.
(Image credit: Getty Images)

The Uffington White Horse, Oxfordshire

Thousands of years ago, ancient Britons created a vast and spectacular stylised portrayal of a horse in the hills of

Maiden Castle, Dorset.
(Image credit: Getty)

Maiden Castle, Dorset: An ancient hill fort the size of 50 football pitches

The mysterious and ancient Maiden Castle occupies a vast site in Dorset. Clive Aslet takes a look.

St Michael's Mount, Cornwall.
(Image credit: Mark Bauer / Loop Images/Universal Images Gro)

St Michael’s Mount, Cornwall: The monastery that became a castle that became a home

Few spots on the coast of Britain are as romantic and storied as St Michael's Mount in Cornwall.

The Balkerne Gate, Colchester — a Roman gateway in the town's Roman wall, still standing 2,000 years later.
(Image credit: Roger Ashford / Getty)

Colchester, Essex: The purpose-built capital city of Roman Britain

Clive Aslet considers the town that was one of Roman Britain's greatest cities — and even, for a while, its capital:

Canterbury Cathedral, built between 1070 and 1077, is one of the oldest in England. It was largely rebuilt in 1174 in Gothic style following a fire.
(Image credit: Getty)

Canterbury Cathedral: Architectural wonder, place of worship, and site of one of history's most infamous murders

Canterbury Cathedral is the seat of the Church of England, the end of the nation's most famous pilgrimage route, and

The neolithic settlement of Skara Brae, the best preserved groups of prehistoric houses in Western Europe.

Skara Brae: The prehistoric village on Orkney that's older than Great Pyramid of Giza

The best-preserved Neolithic settlement in Europe isn't in a French cave or an Italian hillside; it's Skara Brae on Orkney,

Clive is a writer and commentator on architecture and British life, who began work at Country Life in 1977 -- he was editor of the magazine from 1993-2006, becoming the PPA's Editor of the Year. He has also written many books, including The Edwardian Country House and The American Country House. His first novel The Birdcage was published in 2014.