Partrishow Church, Powys: The church with a fresco of Death that can't be painted over

A well with healing powers and a mysterious fresco mark Partrishow Church apart from the usual.

Partrishow Church near Abergavenny.
Partrishow Church near Abergavenny.
(Image credit: Alamy)

Some five miles from Abergavenny, gateway to the Brecon Beacons, sits the remote oddity of 14th-century Partrishow Church, built on the site of a 6th-century hermit’s abode.

The waters of St Ishow’s well have long been thought to possess healing powers and the little church is so far off the beaten track that its treasures remained untouched during the Reformation.

St Issui's holy well (Ffynnon Ishow) on the hillside above the Nant Mair stream, Partrishow, Powys.

They include a 15th-century screen and loft of Irish bog oak, carved with dragons and saints, and a font a few hundred years older still with an inscription that translates as ‘Menhir made me in the time of Genillin’, a phrase that conjures Tolkien’s Middle-earth. A fresco depicting Death or Time is said to re-emerge spookily after every attempt to whitewash over it.

The medieval painting of Time (or Death) with an hourglass, scythe and spade in Patricio (Partrishow) church of St Issui, Powys.

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Annunciata Elwes

Annunciata grew up in the wilds of Lancashire and now lives in Hampshire with a husband, two daughters and an awful pug called Parsley. She’s been floating round the Country Life office for more than a decade, her work winning the Property Magazine of the Year Award in 2022 (Property Press Awards). Before that, she had a two-year stint writing ‘all kinds of fiction’ for The Sunday Times Travel Magazine, worked in internal comms for Country Life’s publisher (which has had many names in recent years but was then called IPC Media), and spent another year researching for a historical biographer, whose then primary focus was Graham Greene and John Henry Newman and whose filing system was a collection of wardrobes and chests of drawers filled with torn scraps of paper. During this time, she regularly gave tours of 17th-century Milton Manor, Oxfordshire, which may or may not have been designed by Inigo Jones, and co-founded a literary, art and music festival, at which Johnny Flynn headlined. When not writing and editing for Country Life, Annunciata is also a director of TIN MAN ART, a contemporary art gallery founded in 2021 by her husband, James Elwes.