Hell Gill, the dramatic canyon that marks the line where the Yorkshire Dales meet the Lake District

Annunciata Elwes takes a look at Hell Gill, a trek that's not for the faint of heart.

Waterfalls on Hell Gill, Oxendale.
Waterfalls on Hell Gill, Oxendale.
(Image credit: Alamy Stock Photo)

An excursion to Hell Gill, which marks the Yorkshire Dales/Lake District border, is often compared to time spent in the belly of Jonah’s whale, a feeling enhanced by the sudden transition from exposed fellside to murky canyon when following the Hell Gill Beck downstream. Ash trees stretch to meet each other 66ft above, shutting out the light.

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Not for the faint of heart (or claustrophobic), the peaty water in this 1,640ft-long limestone gash is knee, if not waist, deep and the damp, mossy walls are 3ft wide in places. One suspects only cavers are happy venturing beyond the 5ft waterfall in the middle.

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Annunciata Elwes

Annunciata grew up in the wilds of Lancashire and now lives in Hampshire with a husband, two daughters and an awful pug called Parsley. She’s been floating round the Country Life office for more than a decade, her work winning the Property Magazine of the Year Award in 2022 (Property Press Awards). Before that, she had a two-year stint writing ‘all kinds of fiction’ for The Sunday Times Travel Magazine, worked in internal comms for Country Life’s publisher (which has had many names in recent years but was then called IPC Media), and spent another year researching for a historical biographer, whose then primary focus was Graham Greene and John Henry Newman and whose filing system was a collection of wardrobes and chests of drawers filled with torn scraps of paper. During this time, she regularly gave tours of 17th-century Milton Manor, Oxfordshire, which may or may not have been designed by Inigo Jones, and co-founded a literary, art and music festival, at which Johnny Flynn headlined. When not writing and editing for Country Life, Annunciata is also a director of TIN MAN ART, a contemporary art gallery founded in 2021 by her husband, James Elwes.