Colchester, Essex: The purpose-built capital city of Roman Britain
Clive Aslet considers the town that was one of Roman Britain's greatest cities — and even, for a while, its capital: Colchester.

The Emperor Claudius ordered the Roman invasion of Britain in AD43, arriving in person once the fighting was all over to lead his army into what would be the capital of his new province, Camulodunum, present-day Colchester, which became Britain’s first formally laid-out town and a useful port for trade.
Claudius would have found a settlement on a gravelly rise overlooking the highest navigable point of the River Colne, surrounded by earth defences; the earthworks protected the local Trinovantes from incursions from the west. A Roman colony helped secure the region, the first move of which was to raise a great temple to the deified Claudius, on the hill later occupied by the Norman castle.
Camulodunum was sacked during the ferocious revolt of the Iceni, led by Boudicca, but, it was rebuilt, this time with the strong walls, parts of which still survive, and the imposing Balkerne Gate — the largest surviving from Roman Britain — for traffic using the three-track road that led to London.
However, Camulodunum lost its place to Londinium as capital; Colchester’s greatest moment of Roman glory had lasted a mere 17 years. But glorious it was: there were fine houses with heated-mosaic-floors, no fewer than three theatres, and the only chariot racing circus in Britain.
How to visit Colchester
Colchester is an hour north-east of London, an hour's train ride from London's Liverpool St Station.
Many of the most important sites can be seen in and around the city centre; the www.visitcolchester.com site has an excellent list, while the award-winning Colchester Castle Museum (adults £11.25) is an unmissable stop-off point for those wanting to find out more about the city's history. It's also a historic spot in its own right, being the the largest Norman Keep in Europe.
Stonehenge, Wilthsire: 'One of the wonders not only of this country, but of the world'
Our Grand Tour of Britain alights at what is arguably the world's most famous prehistoric site: Stonehenge, in Wiltshire.
Sign up for the Country Life Newsletter
Exquisite houses, the beauty of Nature, and how to get the most from your life, straight to your inbox.
Skara Brae: The prehistoric village on Orkney that's older than Great Pyramid of Giza
The best-preserved Neolithic settlement in Europe isn't in a French cave or an Italian hillside; it's Skara Brae on Orkney,
The Uffington White Horse, Oxfordshire
Thousands of years ago, ancient Britons created a vast and spectacular stylised portrayal of a horse in the hills of
Maiden Castle, Dorset: An ancient hill fort the size of 50 football pitches
The mysterious and ancient Maiden Castle occupies a vast site in Dorset. Clive Aslet takes a look.
St Michael’s Mount, Cornwall: The monastery that became a castle that became a home
Few spots on the coast of Britain are as romantic and storied as St Michael's Mount in Cornwall.
The Pontcysyllte Aqueduct: Thomas Telford's 'ribbon of water in the sky'
The magnificent Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is one of the great testaments to Industrial Revolution ingenuity — and as beautiful as it is
-
Quiz of the Day: Rick Astley's breakthrough hit, Picasso vs. Van Gogh and guess the country house price
Have a go at our Quiz of the Day. Good luck!
By Toby Keel Published
-
A wetsuit room, fingerprint entry and coastal views from all the principal rooms: Is this the ultimate Cornish holiday home?
Sitting pretty overlooking Polzeath Beach in North Cornwall, Megizzy’s spectacular views, contemporary design and well thought out features are hard to beat.
By Annabel Dixon Last updated
-
10 of Scotland’s most magical white sand beaches
What better day to celebrate some of Scotland's most stunning locations than St Andrew's Day? Here's our pick of 10 of the finest white sand beaches in the country.
By Country Life Published
-
Curious Questions: Who dislodged Britain's most famous balancing rock?
A recent trip to Cornwall inspires Martin Fone to tell the rather sad story of the ruin and restoration of one of Cornwall's great 19th century tourist attractions: Logan Rock at Treen, near Land's End.
By Martin Fone Published
-
Henley Festival: 13 things you'll see at the 'posh Glastonbury'
Revellers in ball gowns and dinner jackets, turning up on board £200,000 boats to dance and party while knocking back magnums of vintage champagne? It can only be the extraordinary Henley Festival, the high-end musical extravaganza that's a sort of Glastonbury-on-Thames for the (very) well heeled. We sent Emma Earnshaw along to see what it was like.
By Emma Earnshaw Published
-
The best open air theatres in Britain
Amid the sweet chestnuts, walnuts and cobnuts of a Suffolk farm, a natural amphitheatre has been transformed into a glorious sylvan venue for touring companies to tread Nature’s boards. Jo Cairdv pays a visit to the mesmerising Thorington Theatre, and picks out three more of the finest outdoor performance venues in Britain.
By Toby Keel Published
-
Alexandra Palace: How it's survived fires, bankruptcy and even gang warfare in 150 years as London's 'palace of the people'
Alexandra Palace has suffered every imaginable disaster, yet remains enduringly popular even a century and a half after its official grand opening. Martin Fone takes a look at the history of one of Britain's great public buildings.
By Martin Fone Published
-
Berwick-upon-Tweed, Northumberland: The spectacular border town with a castle that changed hands 13 times
Berwick-upon-Tweed spent centuries as a pawn in Anglo-Scottish conflict; today, it's a charming border town with spectacular sights. Clive Aslet takes a look.
By Clive Aslet Published
-
Ewelme, Oxfordshire: The medieval almshouses set up by Chaucer's grand-daughter and still running today
Country Life's 21st century Grand Tour of Britain stops off at the remarkable church and almshouses at Ewelme, Oxfordshire.
By Toby Keel Published
-
The Flying Scotsman: How the first 100mph locomotive became the most famous train in the world
The first train to officially hit 100mph may not even have been the first, and didn't hold the rail speed record for long; yet a century later its legend is undimmed. Jack Watkins celebrates the Flying Scotsman.
By Jack Watkins Published