Britain’s most scenic drives: The Hardknott and Wrynose Passes, Cumbria
On a quest to find the country's most glorious roads, Annunciata Elwes explores Cumbria's Hardknott and Wrynose Passes.


Indefatigable Lakeland fellwalker, author and illustrator A. Wainwright (he didn't like 'Alfred', apparently) certainly wasn’t bluffing when he advised drivers coming from the east, over Wrynose towards Hardknott (using the easier pass as a warm-up), to approach with ‘the utmost concentration’. As well as being one of Britain's most scenic drives, it's also one of the trickiest to drive.
This steep, twisting, ‘Lord of the Rings’-worthy single track through the Eskdale Valley, between picturesque Eskdale and Ambleside, is often described as the steepest and most challenging drive in Britain, with gradients of up to 33% and signs that shout ‘Extreme caution’ and ‘Severe bends’.
Second gear is your friend, car-oblivious sheep are not. Yet faint heart never won fair landscape is, perhaps, what the Romans thought as they built their loneliest outpost, Hard Knott Fort, sometime between 120–138AD.
The 500 or so who travelled from the balmy Dalmatian coast to be stationed here to protect the pass probably didn’t enjoy the Lake District weather, but the spectacular views surely made up for it.
Credit: Dominic Fraser / Aston Martin
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Annunciata grew up in the wilds of Lancashire and now lives in Hampshire with a husband, two daughters and an awful pug called Parsley. She’s been floating round the Country Life office for more than a decade, her work winning the Property Magazine of the Year Award in 2022 (Property Press Awards). Before that, she had a two-year stint writing ‘all kinds of fiction’ for The Sunday Times Travel Magazine, worked in internal comms for Country Life’s publisher (which has had many names in recent years but was then called IPC Media), and spent another year researching for a historical biographer, whose then primary focus was Graham Greene and John Henry Newman and whose filing system was a collection of wardrobes and chests of drawers filled with torn scraps of paper. During this time, she regularly gave tours of 17th-century Milton Manor, Oxfordshire, which may or may not have been designed by Inigo Jones, and co-founded a literary, art and music festival, at which Johnny Flynn headlined. When not writing and editing for Country Life, Annunciata is also a director of TIN MAN ART, a contemporary art gallery founded in 2021 by her husband, James Elwes.
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