The Forest of Bowland: One of the last wild swathes of England, still resisting taming in the 21st century

Giles Kime takes a look at the Forest of Bowland, a 'dramatic mix of fells, windswept moors and sheltered valleys'.

Langden Beck on the approach to the Trough of Bowland in the Forest of Bowland, Lancashire.
Langden Beck on the approach to the Trough of Bowland in the Forest of Bowland, Lancashire.
(Image credit: Alasdair James / Getty Images/iStockphoto)
Giles Kime
By
published
in Features

Until recently, there were other wild swathes of England blessed with the same glorious emptiness that is one of the The Forest of Bowland’s many memorable qualities. However, unlike the Sherwood and Savernake forests, this dramatic mix of fells, windswept moors and sheltered valleys has resisted taming.

Geography might have helped to maintain the splendid feeling of isolation; travellers on their way north have been eager to see the wonders of the Lake District and those travelling south distracted by Morecambe Sands, which, although distinguished by an unworldly beauty, have claimed many lives. ‘The stranger, from the moment he sets foot on those Sands seems to leave the turmoil and traffic of the world behind him,’ wrote William Wordsworth in 1810.

Strangers who find their way to the Forest of Bowland and are accustomed to the creature comforts of the Highlands and the Lakes will be disappointed by its more spartan character; other than a few notable exceptions, such as the legendary Inn at Whitewell, tourism is not a priority here, which only serves to enhance its charm. Instead, the focus is on farming, sheep in particular, as in the wide Brennand Valley.

The Brennand Valley, Forest of Bowland AONB.
(Image credit: Tom Richardson Bowland / Alamy)

The energetic who explore the Trough are treated to majestic views from Clougha Pike, Grit Fell and Ward’s Stone. Another, less heady perspective is provided by the Pendle Witches Way that follows the route believed to have been taken in 1612 by the gaggle of residents of Pendle Hill to their trial (and subsequent execution) at Lancaster for witchcraft.

The route weaves past Clitheroe, Dunsop Bridge, through the Duke of Westminter’s Abbeystead estate and finishes at Lancaster Castle, which was still a prison until a decade ago. It still has a working courtroom — although the fully functioning branding iron hasn’t been put to work since 1811.

The Trough Of Bowland.
(Image credit: Maureen Bracewell / Getty)

Factfile: Forest of Bowland AONB

  • The Forest of Bowland, also known as the Bowland Fells, was designated an AONB in 1964 and includes the Forest of Pendle and parts of the Ribble Valley.
  • Its highest point, Ward’s Stone, rises majestically 1,841ft above sea level.
  • It’s rich in ornithological life, including golden plovers and oystercatchers, and is one of few English strongholds for the elusive hen harrier.
  • Last year, the Ribble Valley was voted the happiest place in England, beating the Orkney Islands by a whisker.

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An ancient yew tree at Box Hill
(Image credit: Alamy Stock Photo)

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Giles Kime
Giles Kime
Giles Kime is Country Life's Executive and Interiors Editor, an expert in interior design with decades of experience since starting his career at The World of Interiors magazine. Giles joined Country Life in 2016, introducing new weekly interiors features, bridging the gap between our coverage of architecture and gardening. He previously launched a design section in The Telegraph and spent over a decade at Homes & Gardens magazine (launched by Country Life's founder Edward Hudson in 1919). A regular host of events at London Craft Week, Focus, Decorex and the V&A, he has interviewed leading design figures, including Kit Kemp, Tricia Guild, Mary Fox Linton, Chester Jones, Barbara Barry and Lord Snowdon. He has written a number of books on interior design, property and wine, the most recent of which is on the legendary interior designer Nina Campbell who last year celebrated her fiftieth year in business. This Autumn sees the publication of his book on the work of the interior designer, Emma Sims-Hilditch. He has also written widely on wine and at 26, was the youngest ever editor of Decanter Magazine. Having spent ten years restoring an Arts & Crafts house on the banks of the Itchen, he and his wife, Kate, are breathing life into a 16th-century cottage near Alresford that has remained untouched for almost half a century.
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