Greatest recipes ever: Nigel Slater’s remoulade of celeriac and bacon

‘Although it's tempting to cook rich, warming stews and soups throughout the winter, sometimes I want a change-something lighter that I can eat as a lunch or throw together as a quick starter for friends. This recipe fits the bill perfectly. Remoulade is one of the most delicious ways to serve celeriac, raw and crunchy, with its vaguely anise flavour more subtle than when it's cooked in mash or in a rich, creamy gratin. Nigel pairs this salad with smoked bacon instead of the classic Bayonne ham, and dresses it with a creamy, tangy dressing. The combination is a dream. Serve it with freshly baked bread, and you'll be mopping up the juices with your crusts'

Thomasina Miers

A remoulade of celeriac and smoked bacon

Extract from Nigel Slater's Tender: Volume I Published by Fourth Estate

As much as I appreciate the traditional rendition of the sort of celeriac remoulade you might get in a Parisian brasserie, I also like to shake it up a bit. Including the ham, or even bacon, in the salad rather than serving it alongside gives the meat a while to get to know the other ingredients, becoming more than just an accompaniment. An alternative to bacon would be shreds of smoked venison or Parma ham, or maybe smoked mackerel. Radish sprouts are stunningly coloured sprouted seeds with a spicy heat. Enterprising wholefood shops and super-markets have them, or you can sprout your own in a salad sprouter. If they evade you, you could use any sprouted seed here.

Serves 2 as a light main course For the dressing

250ml crème fraîche The juice of half a lemon 2tbsp grain mustard For the salad

A large handful of parsley leaves About 500g celeriac 8 rashers smoked bacon 50g radish sprouts or mung-bean sprouts Method

Mix the crème fraîche, lemon juice and mustard together and stir in a little black pepper. Roughly chop the parsley. Peel the celeriac and shred it coarsely. I find this easiest with a food processor and a coarse grater attachment. Grill the bacon until it is starting to crisp and the fat has turned gold, then cut it into pieces the size of a postage stamp. Stir the celeriac, radish sprouts, parsley, bacon and dressing together. Serve while the bacon is still hot.