Cookery books for Christmas
Leslie Geddes-Brown identifies the best cookery books for Christmas, with an eye to recipes for real cooks rather than chef’s eye candy


This year's cookery books are simple and Green (lots of wild food), with recipes for real cooks, rather than chef's eye-candy. Here's my choice in order of approval.
The Cook's Book of Ingredients (Dorling Kindersley, £30) Exhaustive list of up-to-date ingredients with added recipes, clearly photographed and laid out in the way DK does best, from the obvious-potatoes-to the obscure-rice paddy herb. Ideal, not only for beginners, but also for sophisticated cooks.
What to Cook and How to Cook It Jane Hornby (Phaidon, £24.95) More than 400 pages with step-by-step recipes, often taking more than four pages each. They range from a sandwich to surprisingly complex dishes such as coq au vin and curries. The emphasis is on student-type food, although it would suit any beginner.
How I Cook Skye Gyngell (Quadrille, £25) Chef Gyngell retains her common-sense approach to luscious food that doesn't need a laboratory. Her added tips are worth the price alone.
Recipes and Ramblings Elisabeth Luard (Oldie, £14.99) A book collected from her Oldie columns and outstandingly illustrated by herself. Mrs Luard is a veteran and award-winning cookery writer who feels no need to show off. A tasty present.
Kitchen Garden Companion Stephanie Alexander (Quadrille, £30) This writer got into vegetable gardening helping Australian primary-school children to grow their own. Excellent gardening advice (with tips for children) and allied recipes makes this perfect for country mothers, but why it comes with a loose fabric cover like a sofa is beyond me-take it straight off.
The Home Cookbook Monty and Sarah Don (Bloomsbury, £25) And now a book from gardeners turned cooks. Good home recipes (chicken pie, toad-in-the-hole, crumbles), with not too much emphasis on vegetables. This is about living in the country with a garden, a few hens, good food shops and farmer's markets.
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Food from Plenty Diana Henry (Mitchell Beazley, £25) A celebration of good food with-out planet-killer guilt trips. Food, she says, is about giving pleasure without extravagance. As always with this writer, an inspiring and beautiful book.
Food From Many Greek Kitchens Tessa Kiros (Murdoch, £25) Greece (arguably) doesn't have a great cuisine and this book is more enjoyable for its evocative scenes of Greek life. If you long for Homer's wine-dark sea, this volume is for you (apart from the horrid italic type printed in sickly turquoise).
And now for something completely different The Flavour Thesaurus NIki Segnit (Bloomsbury £18.99) The most innovative cookbook of the year. Niki Segnit explores what goes with what-chocolate with cauliflower, rosemary with rhubarb-with wit, charm and travellers' tales. Hundreds of ideas, -a brilliant newcomer.
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