Town mouse serves steak and kidney pudding

Bolstered by childhood memories, Clive attempts a steak and kidney pudding at home

Town mouse; country life
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(Image credit: Country Life)

Can anyone make steak-and-kidney pudding? It was one of my very favourite childhood dishes, up there with the fish pie my mother used to produce only on Good Friday. I talk here of pudding, crowned by its cumulus of suet, dry as a judge on the outside, soft as suede where the gravy melts it; a pie with a pastry crust can only disappoint. As the weather turned bitter, I thought it was time to introduce my children to this emperor of winter dishes.

A famous but not impossibly fancy chef supplied the recipe. Suet rolled, meat chopped, Worcestershire sauce sprinkled, and the thing was ready to be steamed for five hours. The stove became an altar, I the Vestal virgin who dedicated the afternoon to tending it. Mount Etna has not produced more steam.

‘Stay for supper,' I said to a friend who had looked in. Plated, as they say in restaurants, it looked like something you might find on the floor of a barn at lambing time. Naturally, one doesn't steam something for half a day without attempting to serve the more cooked parts of it.

The vomiting bug that one of our children developed the next day was, I maintain, pure coincidence. Creating the perfect steak-and-kidney pudding, like the technique of Leonardo, may be an art that has been lost.

Country Life

Country Life is unlike any other magazine: the only glossy weekly on the newsstand and the only magazine that has been guest-edited by HRH The King not once, but twice. It is a celebration of modern rural life and all its diverse joys and pleasures — that was first published in Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee year. Our eclectic mixture of witty and informative content — from the most up-to-date property news and commentary and a coveted glimpse inside some of the UK's best houses and gardens, to gardening, the arts and interior design, written by experts in their field — still cannot be found in print or online, anywhere else.