Country Mouse on French cheeses

Will Britain become the world leader in cheese making?

Country Life mouse
Country Mouse main
(Image credit: Country Life)

The countryside is shifting from its white phase-snow and snowdrops-to its yellow period: daffodils, forsythia, primroses and the much-underrated lesser celandine, whose yellow star-like flowers are lighting up the banks.

Simultaneously, the French are having a yellow period, but in the sense of bureaucratic cowardice. They have decided to destroy one of their great traditions: that of making Camembert with unpasteurised milk according to a 1791 recipe given to Mariel Harel, an inhabitant of the village of Camembert, by a priest from Brie who was fleeing French Revolutionaries.

Camembert needs unpasteurised milk to give it that unmistakable pungent gout; without it, it is a shadow of its smelly glory-like looking at the Mona Lisa through tracing paper.

Charles de Gaulle famously said: 'How can anyone govern a nation that has 246 different kinds of cheese?' The answer now seems to be by creating fromage as sterile as possible.

Fortunately, the British Cheese industry is thriving due to unpasteurised cheeses; the current supreme champion British Cheese is the camembert-like Tunworth. How will the French cope with the shame? MH

Country Life

Country Life is unlike any other magazine: the only glossy weekly on the newsstand and the only magazine that has been guest-edited by HRH The King not once, but twice. It is a celebration of modern rural life and all its diverse joys and pleasures — that was first published in Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee year. Our eclectic mixture of witty and informative content — from the most up-to-date property news and commentary and a coveted glimpse inside some of the UK's best houses and gardens, to gardening, the arts and interior design, written by experts in their field — still cannot be found in print or online, anywhere else.