Country mouse on a fishing trip to Iceland

Mark finds himself salmon fishing in Iceland with Scotsmen – which says much about the state of fishing in Scotland

Country mouse, Country Life magazine
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The tourist guidebook eulogised about one restaurant, and, in particular, its delicious dish of tenderloin of horse. The one we ate in served whale steaks and smoked puffin. For many reasons, Iceland really is unlike any other country.

Although politically part of Europe, it's geographically joined to America as well, sitting on the mid-Atlantic ridge that divides both continental tectonic plates. It is wild, beautiful and, as any air passenger will know, courtesy of the eruption earlier this year, volcanic. Three years ago, before the banking crash, Iceland ranked as the most developed country in the world. Now, it has wonderful houses, big cars and no money.

We were there to fish for salmon, which are highly prized and revered by the locals. Icelanders take a no-nonsense approach to the salmon's enemies: seals and gulls are shot and salmon farms are banned.

The result is salmon by the million. On the East Ranga River, where we fished thanks to Roxtons Field Sports, 18 rods caught 181 salmon on a single day. The fact that half these fishermen were Scottish tells its own sorry story of what has happened to the king of fish in that country where, in recent times, the odds have been stacked against rather than for the mighty fish.

Country Life

Country Life is unlike any other magazine: the only glossy weekly on the newsstand and the only magazine that has been guest-edited by HRH The King not once, but twice. It is a celebration of modern rural life and all its diverse joys and pleasures — that was first published in Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee year. Our eclectic mixture of witty and informative content — from the most up-to-date property news and commentary and a coveted glimpse inside some of the UK's best houses and gardens, to gardening, the arts and interior design, written by experts in their field — still cannot be found in print or online, anywhere else.