Country mouse: Game to eat?
At a dinner to mark the end of the shooting season our mouse enjoys squirrel, amongst some other choice offerings


It must must have been a first. Whoever heard of a mouse eating a squirrel? I didn't set out to boldly go where no rodent had before, but the lure of the pâté-gently spiced and served with fennel and homebaked-sourdough toast- proved impossible to resist. I was in Notting Hill, seeing the shooting season out in style. The Ark, that Tardis-like restaurant at the top of Kensington Park Road, has been reborn as The Shed, a little piece of rus in urbe complete with corrugated iron and tractor parts.
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Its co-owners, Richard and Oliver Gladwin, come from a farming family and had thrown their weight behind the Countryside Alliance's Game to Eat campaign with a special end-of-season menu. Diners perched on seats half-inched from John Deeres, sipping Sussex Reserve (the Gladwins have a vineyard back in Nutbourne) with their wood-pigeon salad. The squirrel was just the start of it: every course (or ‘drive', as per the menu) was a delight. Pheasant bullshot, rabbit cutlet with wood sorrel, meltingly tender venison -this was game to conjure with.
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Emma Hughes lives in London and has spent the past 15 years writing for publications including the Guardian, the Telegraph, the Evening Standard, Waitrose Food, British Vogue and Condé Nast Traveller. Currently Country Life's Acting Assistant Features Editor and its London Life restaurant columnist, if she isn't tapping away at a keyboard she's probably taking something out of the oven (or eating it).
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